What percentage of rope strength is reduced by using the double loop figure eight?

When using a double loop figure eight knot in climbing or rescue scenarios, it is essential to be aware of how different knots affect the strength of the rope. The double loop figure eight knot is known to result in a reduction of approximately 18 percent in rope strength. This reduction is significant because it highlights the need for careful consideration of knot selection in any rescue or climbing situation, where maximum strength and safety are paramount.

The reason for this specific percentage lies in the knot's design and the way it distributes load across its structure. When tension is applied, the knot alters the rope’s ability to bear weight effectively, thus leading to a decrease in overall strength. Understanding this aspect allows practitioners to make informed decisions while planning rescues or climbing activities, ensuring they account for the reduced strength when estimating load capacities.